I will try to see if I can figure out how to uploads some photos.
Here is a link to my photo box upload.
https://www.photobox.co.uk/album/temporary
I also show my drill set up and how I made guides to help hold the pieces when I am drilling it from rotation (though I do have to also hold the piece with my finger, albeit carefully when drilling. I also show my hanger deck set up where i put my whiteboard on blocks.
You can also see how I used my wet erase marker pens to color the sides of my marker counters. You can also see in the first photo how I used these markers to box in the name of the marker to give it more pop and that harkens back to their previous color schemes such as the dig in counter visible on that photo.
I also added a few more photos that show how I did this for disrupted and demoralized markers. Plus I show my dice tower and all the n sided die I have to do one of my house rules that lets one interpolate combat value totals.
You might note that my last photo I showed how one can create a magnet sandwich back stacking magnets squares with (in this case) 3 playing pieces sandwiched between the two magnets. This can keep your pieces pretty secure in that if your cat jumps up on your game table it wont prevent the cat from knocking them over but ait will protect them for any slight bumps. And if they do fall over the stack is still intact. In fight this application is one of the things that lead be to make these in that I wanted to be able to play board games out side and these would keep the pieces in place from mild winds. However, I found the pastoral settings were I was outside did not quite recommend them selves to reacted such violence as a war game depicts, even if it is just cardboard so I never really followed up on that other than it did work. However, one doe have to be careful that a magnet in on stack does pull over a magnet in an adjacent stack when putting them any place other as the base where that is not a problem since the magnets are there more attached to the whiteboard than each other.
Another approach is to use double sided but non permanent tape.
BTW, If you have any problem accessing my photos let me know.
And BTW, while I am on this subject of magnets what would really be cool is if one could embed tow small magnets in a game piece. To do this where the piece could be flipped one has to use two magnets, one the north pole is up, the other the south pole up... like like this:
.....xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
.....x ..................,x
.....x .......N..........x
.....X....................x
.....x........S..........x
,,,,,x....................x
.....xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
.....game piece
that way when one flips (vertically in this case) the piece that flipped piece with have its north pole at the top and south pole at the bottom as well. One could use much smaller (and hence less expensive) magnets in that the magnets would only typically separated by the outer papers (if they have the same height as the piece thickness) and thus that smaller gap means the magnet can be smaller and still have produce same force between pieces. I used bigger magnets in my bases so that one can have bigger gaps and still have lots of force. The trick would be in sizing the magnet so as to have enough force to keep the pieces together but not so much that it would be hard to separate them when lifting a piece.
These these pieces would be expensive for sure, but would be really cool too and maybe worth that expense. For then one could use the on a flat table was I am doing or on a magnetic white board on a wall. And since the magnets would be covered by the outer paper on the top and bottom face of the piece where the artwork is printed you could not see the magnets in that they are embedded in the piece but each piece would have a weight and heft to them and stick together and one could make large stacks that would be resistant to falling over other than a big knock.
I have tried to make my homemade version of these but it is too hard to do without special tooling. But if one die cut or laser cut the holes and the had a machine to insert the magnets as part of the process that manufactured the game pieces and bought the magnets in bulk quantities maybe they could be made for something like $30 a sheet or maybe $50. Pricey for sure but not so pricey that they would not have some that would be willing to shell out that much money for such high tech pieces. I certainly would be willing to do that. Even better is if one could have the magnets added to the cardboard when it is being made so one does not even have to cut the holes and insert the magnets but just bake them into the cardboard itself.
And incidentally, this idea came from years thinking about how to mount game pieces using magnets where the existing schemes did not appear to be all that good.This approach would solve most of those short comings (from a technical standpoint that is) other than the price and that it would not be applicable to existing pieces but only to new ones. But using sandwich method that I described hear can be applied to any pieces new or old and while it would not work quite as well as the embedded magnets it still seems to work OK for holding pieces in place and work great for just proving a base to a piece.
BTW, I just test making a 6 counter sandwich and that seemed to work well. So butting a base on the bottom and on the top as well seems to secure up to six pieces well, maybe even more. So that is one way to secure a game over time against small jolts.
One more use ( and I imagine there could be many more) for these clear acrylic 1" squares is to use them (without magnets) as Moved/FIRED markers in that being clearly they let you see the unit under them, they are easier to see when buried in a stack and easy to pick up. I am adding a photo of how this would look. I colored the edges red and green for each side but put a black square on the top to make them even easier to see. One could still use the regular MOVED /FIRED counters in addition to these clear ones to denote special things like first fire, mired, etc.
