(07-13-2017, 09:37 AM)RLW Wrote: (07-13-2017, 08:50 AM)Shad Wrote: RLW, email me your photos (admin@pg-hq.com) and I will post them here for you.
Thanks, I'll do that.
BTW, I did add captions to those on photobucket. Also thought one could download thne from there but apparently not now that I look more closely at it.
Update: I tried sending you an email by clicking the email button below but it seems that it might not have worked.
BTW, I did put some additional photos at that site. One shows how one could use 1" clear acrylic hexes as Moved/Fired markers. The take up miore spae but are easier to see. One can buy them at the same place on buys the squares.
https://shop.zlazr.com/products/copy-of-...tric-craft
I originally bought these to see if they would work in making 3D terrain but they really didn't work that well for that. But they are cool and I am sure one can find many uses for them on ones wargaming table.
The next shows how I use old Wire.AT Ditch counters from AK to keep track of losses and mines for initiative and wreck counters to keep track of fog of war status and initiative remaining. The wired side stands for either 1 loss (if on the right) or the number of losses that causes a loss of initiative if on the left. The AT ditch side shows non losses. Thus say if one losses a step of initiative for every ten losses then one would start out with 10 AT ditch counters in the stack. For each loss one flips the counter to the wired side and places it to the right of that stack. When there are no more AT Ditch side up counters on that stack place a wired counter there that would stand for 10 losses. Then flip the stack of 10 wired counters on the right to the AT ditch side and proceed from there.
The mines show the current initiative (one has to use several for initiatives above 3 by adding them up in the stack). The wreck counters shows played and unplayed action segments. I place them outside the box if they are due to initiative. I put the to the side once that action segment is played. When they are all played at the end of that turn one starts rolling for fog of war.
So in the photo one can see that green (that side that has the green bases, in this case the Germans) has an initiative of 3 (the 3 min counter) has 3 segments it can move before the Russian can move, those 3 wreck counter above that black box (made by my wet erase marker) and not in it, where the Russians do have there 3 wreck counter in the black box. Once the re are no more wreck counters either over or in those two black boxes fog of war rolls commence after that turn.
The German loses a step of initiative for every 12 losses while the Russian does so for every 10. Thus the game started out with the German having a stack of 12 AT dit markers and the Russian 10. As play has continued on can see from the photo that Rusian has suffered one loss of initiative and thus was at 2 but now is at 1 and so that wired maerker to the left stands for 10 loss points while the stack on the right stand for 1 loss per marker. One can also see that the German has not yet lost any initiative but is about there with just a few more losses in that the stack of AT ditch markers is almost empty.
Incidentally the three 8's in that photo show how I marked my off board infantry house rule and show that those 3 hexes can be fired on by that off board infantry (virtual) stack of 8 rire value (at a 2 hex range). BRW, that rule effect game play more than any of the others I have deviced in that those game board edges or no longer the (relatively) safe haven they sued to be.
The next photo shows how I use the old AT ditche wired counter to mark turns, the wired side being a played turn. One can place reinforcements on the piece (or near it) to mark that as the turn that they arrive, plus can place other pieces such as aircraft a to jog one's memory that something special is happening that turn.
I devised these methods (after many an unsuccessful tries) to make it easy to keep up with this info and in a manner that does not require much board space or writing and can use old pieces that I have already bought... so there can be a use for for all those marker pieces that one has to buy over and over with each new PG game.
And being the experimenter that I am I have just discovered that if one has trouble picking up a piece on a crowded area of the game board (be it a cardboard piece or an acrylic one ) that a small piece of sticky tack can do the job rather nicely and will lift any light weight piece with ease (though obviously not any held by magnets). Also, this seems to work much better than using tweezers to do the same, which I never could ever really make work that well after having purchased various types for that very purpose and now lie unused and largely forgotten in some random storage box stuffed in some drawer or shelf waiting for some need that they might fulfill to arise.
https://www.amazon.com/Amscan-Sticky-Par...B000HAZCS8
I am thus keeping a few pieces of sticky tack stuck to my dice tower to be ever so handy whenever I might want to use them to lift a MoVED/FIRED counter or such.
